Cactus Care Guide
UrbanTribes notes on the nurture and growing of columnar cacti
www.urbantribes.com.au
Scientific Classification
San Pedro cactus (Echinopsis pachanoi, syn. Trichocereus pachanoi)
Kingdom: Plantae, Division: Magnoliophyta, Class: Magnoliopsida, Order: Caryophyliales, Family Cactaceae, Genus: Echinopsis, Binomial Name & Species: Echinopsis Pachanoi, Synonyms: Trichocereus Pachanoi, Family: Cactaceae
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_cactus
Peruvian Torch Cactus (Echinopsis peruviana syn. Trichocereus peruvianus)
Kingdom: Plantae, Division: Magnoliophyta, Class: Magnoliopsida, Order: Caryophyliales, Family Cactaceae, Genus: Echinopsis, Binomial Name & Species: Echinopsis Peruviana, Synonyms: Trichocereus Peruvianus, Family: Cactaceae
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruvian_torch
Preparation before sowing
When your cactus cutting first arrives home, leave the pieces in a well-ventilated, dark and dry area. This is so the wound can heal, without bacteria or mould forming, also to minimise growth or ‘stretching’ for light. A callus will form over the open wound. The cuttings do stay alive for a very long time, so don't worry about time and don't be impatient, do ensure the callus is completely dry and well formed before sowing, be expecting 2/3 weeks before planting him in soiil. Roots will begin forming within 4 to 6 weeks and should be nicely formed after about 3 months. Rooting hormones are not necessary, but it will speed up the formation of roots. For cuttings missing its head, make sure you plant him the right side up. Plant the V forms on the cacti facing down “The V pointing down goes into the ground”
Soil and Sun
For planting in a garden bed, ensure the bed is elevated and the soil can drain water easily. You don’t want your cacti sitting in a puddle of water. Ideal spots are any areas that receive a few hours of direct sun, especially morning sunshine, and are partially shaded during the mid to late afternoon. For growing in a pot; These cacti like to send out far ranging lateral root systems near to the surface, so if potted they should be placed in very wide pots. As with planting in a garden bed,
it is essential that H2O can drain freely.
When choosing soil, most commercial cactus mixes work well, but you can easily make your own superior quality mix. A good general-purpose formula combines equal parts organic material, coarse river sand (do not use beach sand), and porous organic material. For the organic material you can use any number of components such peat moss, a quality potting mix, coconut coir, etc. The porous organic material can be perlite or agricultural pumice. We sometimes use veggie compost, garden soil, river sand and charcoal (from our fireplace). Remember, these are just general recipes, and you can improvise your own mix depending upon locally available materials. What’s most important is that your mixture provides excellent drainage. Make sure that your soil is very loose and airy. I usually take a fist full of the medium I just made and make a fist with it. When you open your hand the medium must loosely fall apart. If it sticks together like a ball then the medium is too tight and you should add some grit to loosen it up.
Nutrients and Watering
Overwatering is probably the single most popular way to smother your cactus to death. A few simple rules will help ensure your relationship with your plants is long lived. During the active growing season (spring and summer) both Trichocereus pachanoi & Trichocereus peruvianus need watering once every 2 weeks and when it is really hot water once a week. Also, feed them nutrients (see below) about once a year during the growth season. As long as they’re getting a few hours of direct sun and good ventilation, they really respond to the extra food and water.
Do not water your cactus if the soil is at all damp. Always allow the soil to dry
out completely before you water again
Reason being is, excess water trapped in the soil will result in rotting and decay of the base of your plant in a very short time.During winter, you should barely ever water, as the root system hibernates. When the days shorten and temperatures get cooler, you should begin to restrict watering to every 3-4 weeks. During this time, water only enough to prevent shrinking and withering.
Only fertilize plants, which are actively growing and receiving adequate light. It is very important to,
avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen,
this can cause your cactus skin to split, such as - fish emulsions, bat guano, manures or other nitrogen-rich organic materials. Use a fertilizer formula intended for blooming plants or Natives and mix up 1/4 strength solution. We use Dynamic Lifter, an organic plant food we sprinkle very sparingly (due to nitrogen content) over our garden beds before watering. Osmacoat is a great fertilizer, we use this for our Lophophora and Ariocarpus varieties (any smaller potted cacti) you can get this specially formulated for cacti, but you may have to shop around to find it. As mentioned earlier, during cooler weather and shorter days, your plants root system will be dormant and you should refrain from feeding.
Pesky Pests
Mealy bugs are houseplant insects that produce a white cottony mass around their body. Its waxy and woolly covering can make it difficult for contact insecticides to penetrate the insect. In addition there are many different species of mealy bugs, which have slightly different characteristics and habits which further compounds the problem. A particular species of mealy bug attacks the roots of cacti. This form will be seen as a sticky white sap-like substance on the roots when repotting a plant. Damage occurs due to the sucking action of the insect, and will eventually kill the cacti. If a plant is unaccountably sick and not growing, take it out of its pot (or ground) and examine the roots. If the bugs are found wash off all the soil and bugs in soapy water, rinse and dry. Place in fresh clean soil. Rubbing Alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) can also be used to control some mealy bugs. Dimethoate is often recommended for large outbreaks. Always cleanse and sterilize frames and all other items used when replanting. Regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide watered into the soil are also effective.
Growth
Peruvian and Pachanoi average growth per year is up to 1 foot or so in ideal conditions, Pachanoi can exceed 15-20 feet in height and approx. 8’-12’in diameter and Peruvian up to 15 feet more or less in height and 6’-8’ in diameter. Once mature they bloom once a year in the hotter months a beautiful white flower, this opens at night
I think that is everything, If you have any questions just drop us a line urbantribes@hotmil.com.au
Take care,
UT
Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.~ Albert Einstein
UrbanTribes notes on the nurture and growing of columnar cacti
www.urbantribes.com.au
Scientific Classification
San Pedro cactus (Echinopsis pachanoi, syn. Trichocereus pachanoi)
Kingdom: Plantae, Division: Magnoliophyta, Class: Magnoliopsida, Order: Caryophyliales, Family Cactaceae, Genus: Echinopsis, Binomial Name & Species: Echinopsis Pachanoi, Synonyms: Trichocereus Pachanoi, Family: Cactaceae
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_cactus
Peruvian Torch Cactus (Echinopsis peruviana syn. Trichocereus peruvianus)
Kingdom: Plantae, Division: Magnoliophyta, Class: Magnoliopsida, Order: Caryophyliales, Family Cactaceae, Genus: Echinopsis, Binomial Name & Species: Echinopsis Peruviana, Synonyms: Trichocereus Peruvianus, Family: Cactaceae
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruvian_torch
Preparation before sowing
When your cactus cutting first arrives home, leave the pieces in a well-ventilated, dark and dry area. This is so the wound can heal, without bacteria or mould forming, also to minimise growth or ‘stretching’ for light. A callus will form over the open wound. The cuttings do stay alive for a very long time, so don't worry about time and don't be impatient, do ensure the callus is completely dry and well formed before sowing, be expecting 2/3 weeks before planting him in soiil. Roots will begin forming within 4 to 6 weeks and should be nicely formed after about 3 months. Rooting hormones are not necessary, but it will speed up the formation of roots. For cuttings missing its head, make sure you plant him the right side up. Plant the V forms on the cacti facing down “The V pointing down goes into the ground”
Soil and Sun
For planting in a garden bed, ensure the bed is elevated and the soil can drain water easily. You don’t want your cacti sitting in a puddle of water. Ideal spots are any areas that receive a few hours of direct sun, especially morning sunshine, and are partially shaded during the mid to late afternoon. For growing in a pot; These cacti like to send out far ranging lateral root systems near to the surface, so if potted they should be placed in very wide pots. As with planting in a garden bed,
it is essential that H2O can drain freely.
When choosing soil, most commercial cactus mixes work well, but you can easily make your own superior quality mix. A good general-purpose formula combines equal parts organic material, coarse river sand (do not use beach sand), and porous organic material. For the organic material you can use any number of components such peat moss, a quality potting mix, coconut coir, etc. The porous organic material can be perlite or agricultural pumice. We sometimes use veggie compost, garden soil, river sand and charcoal (from our fireplace). Remember, these are just general recipes, and you can improvise your own mix depending upon locally available materials. What’s most important is that your mixture provides excellent drainage. Make sure that your soil is very loose and airy. I usually take a fist full of the medium I just made and make a fist with it. When you open your hand the medium must loosely fall apart. If it sticks together like a ball then the medium is too tight and you should add some grit to loosen it up.
Nutrients and Watering
Overwatering is probably the single most popular way to smother your cactus to death. A few simple rules will help ensure your relationship with your plants is long lived. During the active growing season (spring and summer) both Trichocereus pachanoi & Trichocereus peruvianus need watering once every 2 weeks and when it is really hot water once a week. Also, feed them nutrients (see below) about once a year during the growth season. As long as they’re getting a few hours of direct sun and good ventilation, they really respond to the extra food and water.
Do not water your cactus if the soil is at all damp. Always allow the soil to dry
out completely before you water again
Reason being is, excess water trapped in the soil will result in rotting and decay of the base of your plant in a very short time.During winter, you should barely ever water, as the root system hibernates. When the days shorten and temperatures get cooler, you should begin to restrict watering to every 3-4 weeks. During this time, water only enough to prevent shrinking and withering.
Only fertilize plants, which are actively growing and receiving adequate light. It is very important to,
avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen,
this can cause your cactus skin to split, such as - fish emulsions, bat guano, manures or other nitrogen-rich organic materials. Use a fertilizer formula intended for blooming plants or Natives and mix up 1/4 strength solution. We use Dynamic Lifter, an organic plant food we sprinkle very sparingly (due to nitrogen content) over our garden beds before watering. Osmacoat is a great fertilizer, we use this for our Lophophora and Ariocarpus varieties (any smaller potted cacti) you can get this specially formulated for cacti, but you may have to shop around to find it. As mentioned earlier, during cooler weather and shorter days, your plants root system will be dormant and you should refrain from feeding.
Pesky Pests
Mealy bugs are houseplant insects that produce a white cottony mass around their body. Its waxy and woolly covering can make it difficult for contact insecticides to penetrate the insect. In addition there are many different species of mealy bugs, which have slightly different characteristics and habits which further compounds the problem. A particular species of mealy bug attacks the roots of cacti. This form will be seen as a sticky white sap-like substance on the roots when repotting a plant. Damage occurs due to the sucking action of the insect, and will eventually kill the cacti. If a plant is unaccountably sick and not growing, take it out of its pot (or ground) and examine the roots. If the bugs are found wash off all the soil and bugs in soapy water, rinse and dry. Place in fresh clean soil. Rubbing Alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) can also be used to control some mealy bugs. Dimethoate is often recommended for large outbreaks. Always cleanse and sterilize frames and all other items used when replanting. Regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide watered into the soil are also effective.
Growth
Peruvian and Pachanoi average growth per year is up to 1 foot or so in ideal conditions, Pachanoi can exceed 15-20 feet in height and approx. 8’-12’in diameter and Peruvian up to 15 feet more or less in height and 6’-8’ in diameter. Once mature they bloom once a year in the hotter months a beautiful white flower, this opens at night
I think that is everything, If you have any questions just drop us a line urbantribes@hotmil.com.au
Take care,
UT
Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.~ Albert Einstein